Tuesday, June 14, 2016

Day 9 (Tuesday, June 14, 2016)

What an amazing journey thus far.  We left Coldfoot with sweet potato cinnamon rolls and coffee!  YUMMY!  Perhaps a baker from the family can figure out how to replicate these deliciousness!  HINT! HINT!

The road to Prudhoe Bay from Coldfoot was much like the road from Fairbanks to Coldfoot.  Partly paved, mostly rock/gravel, some mud and very wet, and some potholes.  We had to follow several Pilot cars as they were doing some major restoration, mostly near Prudhoe Bay.  Last summer the Sag River flooded and took out part of the Dalton Highway and it was completely closed for 18 days.  We didn’t encounter much traffic that wasn’t work traffic so had to be a major impact for those needing to drive between Fairbanks and Prudhoe. 
Sign along the highway:  Utility Work Ahead.  One of the improvements along this highway is the installation of Fiber Optic cabling.  Fiber Optic!!  Places that don’t even have permanent residents and places with nothing but great views will have Fiber Optic and we don’t! It just isn’t fair.

Andrew’s 1st quote of the day:  It’s the proverbial road less travelled, Cheryl.  And Cheryl would have to agree.  It was mostly just us, a couple of other “tourists” as they weren’t white work trucks.  Not many tourists actually travel further than the Arctic Circle.  It is another 200+ plus miles that takes 6-8 hours.  It was hard to tell what kind of work the work trucks were representing as most vehicles, including ours, were so dirty you couldn’t read anything on the sides.  Road construction, mining, utilities (!), Alaskan Pipeline, Land Management, ???

Andrew’s 2nd quote of the day:  It’s f****** incredible!  (Sorry if that offends anyone.) And it was.  Driving through the mountains and then going up and up and up and crossing the Atigun Pass in the Brooks Range nearly brought me to tears.  Really.  Side note:  The Atigun Pass is the highest highway pass in Alaska at 4,800 feet!!  It can’t even be described or photographed properly.  The snow covered peaks and surrounding ground.  The steep drop offs, the peaks so tall they reached into the clouds and you couldn’t tell where the mountains ended and the sky began.  It was so raw, so untouched, so crisp and cold and tingly.  The temp dropped to about 34 as we drove up and over this pass.  We were alone at the top of all of this wonderment; it was very peaceful! 

The signs:  Avalanche area, do NOT stop!  I kid you not.  I guess they don’t want you stopping to take pictures and gawk because if an avalanche does happen, it will take you out for sure, whereas if you keep driving you may make it out.  Since most of the snow was gone from the upper peaks, we chanced it and stopped.  Again, amazing and jaw-dropping gorgeous.

Once over the peak, we travelled down and down into the Alaskan Coastal Plain.  The flat expanses of snow, herds of caribou, and musk ox (not a herd but one and then a group of 3 walking along) –WOW.  You can see forever and forever.  We stopped to grab a snack and I was so upset…someone left dirty diapers behind.  Dirty diapers!!  Two things crossed my mind:  One WHY DO PEOPLE LITTER!!!! WHY!?!?!?  WHY !?!?!?  And the second, someone is taking a baby or toddler on this LONG drive? I can’t imagine these poor kiddos being stuck in a car seat for these many hours and hours on end.  I remember traveling with our boys and we’d have to schedule lots of run-around time to compensate for their in-the-seat time!  Sigh.

We arrived at Deadhorse Camp, our evening lodging.  I am not sure where we would have camped as there is no camping areas here.  Perhaps miles out??  A tourist van we passed back and forth asked the store keeper about camping (their van was fully self-sustained, he said) and she said that they could just sleep in their parking lot as she wasn’t aware of any place to camp at all.  Our place is again a barracks, except this evening we share our bathroom/shower with all the others on our floor.  The entire “community” of Prudhoe Bay (Deadhorse) is made up of oil companies, and lots of barracks.  It is a camp.  There are a couple of hotels, but they look like barracks.  There is one gas station with gas prices that mimic Canada’s (about double ours!), a restaurant in the one hotel, a NAPA auto dealer that also has a General Store upstairs and a Post Office, some construction companies.  Everything else revolves around the oil industry.  There are no permanent buildings; everything is made of metal like a “Morton” building, except for a couple of “inflatable” buildings.  They look like they were just packed up and brought here and set down. 

There is an airport that supports Alaska Airlines!  The woman that checked me out at the store works two weeks on and then two weeks off and they fly her up and back.  She literally works year-round.  She has to fly to either Fairbanks or Anchorage but usually flies to Fairbanks as that was where her sons and grandkids are.
 
Apparently there are only 4 permanent residences here and everyone else is in and out.  Our hostess who checked us in (Phoebe) is here just for the summer and will leave in September.  She said she travels each summer to a different place. I think she said found this job and others from a website called coolworks.com.

Our poor truck and especially bikes.  They are encrusted with mud from our journey up here.  We looked around but could find no car washes or public hoses.  We’ll have to scrub her down once we get back to Fairbanks.  Every vehicle here is pretty much in the same shape.  It’s hard to tell who the trucks represent.  A lot of oil, yes, but many are working to rebuild the road.
 
The barracks also had a restaurant, sort of, basically a place to eat.  We had to put on gloves to get our corned beef and cabbage and/or chicken stuffed with some kind of amazing cheese stuff, and quinoa/chick pea mix.  The gloves were for not spreading things, the chef said.  I guess when you live very remotely you don’t want to share everything!  The food was some great stuff.


We did take a quick walk, only 2 miles.  Andrew would have walked further but there are so many warnings about Grizzlies and Polar Bears encroaching the camp that I was afraid to wander off too far.  You only have to be faster than one other and that would make me the tasty one as Andrew is pretty fast.  I know he would intervene on my behalf but I didn’t want to put him in that situation. :)

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