Saturday, June 25, 2016

Day 19 (Friday, June 24, 2016)


Plan B.  It was raining when we got to Anchorage and it was still raining when we got up, so Plan B.  We headed to the Alaska Fur and Ivory Exchange, per a recommendation from the same someone who recommended the glacier boat tour out of Whittier.  Interesting place!  You walk in and look up and a taxidermied moose is smiling down at you, and other animals are not necessarily smiling but have their own facial expressions.  There was so much tucked into that store.  It was actually a large store, but there was a lot of things there.  I could have bought animal skins, with or without the heads attached. Yes, you read correctly.  Ivory, jade, and other precious and semi-precious stones, but as part of jewelry and loose.  I could have bought leather made from a variety of sources by the yard, slippers, hats or scarves, the most intricately carved antlers and wood.  It was definitely worth the trip in to see what was in there.  There were actually fur trappers having a conversation in the back with I guess the fur buyer and they were discussing the availability of some and the prices of others. 

We took off towards Valdez by way of Lake Louise.  Everything is melting from the mountains so the rivers and creeks and waterfall are gushing.  It creates quite the scenery as you drive!  The names vary from native sounding ones (Chickaloon River) to plain ones (Squirrel Creek).  Some of the roads today were back to being extremely winding with the mountain directly to the left and a severe drop-off directly to the right.  All the roads have markers on them to show the snow plows were the roads end.   They are very tall and are bright orange at the top.  I can see why this would be very important on some of the roads we took today.

Then we had to use the restroom.  Nature called and there was a little “snack shack” off to the right.  We also wanted some jerky.  We went in and bought our jerky and noticed a sign that said glacier, so we asked.  The Matanuska Glacier was literally down the hill from this little place and “Yeah, you can walk right up to it.”  So, of course we had to.  The road kept warning us that is was a dangerous road but we kept seeing other vehicles coming from it.  One mile in and we had to pay for access and sign “waivers.”  Another two miles in and there she was!! HOLY COW!  The glaciers yesterday were amazing as we got pretty darn close, but these looked like you could really walk on them.  We drove and noticed some people had guides (there was that option but we opted out) and just followed the orange cones.  It looked like we were walking on fine rocks, and then you hear water running.  Then you look down and realize you are walking on ice.  YES!  ICE!  The rocks are part of what the glacier picked up and it keeps it from being too slippery.  We literally were walking across a glacier!  What a LIFE® card!  The water was running below the ice and there were crevices and cracks and such between large sections. It is so hard to explain and I am not even sure our pictures will do it justice.  Some people had crampons and walking sticks with pointy ends so they were going really far out onto the white/blue part.  We stayed on the clear dirty icy part and just got close to one.  Andrew found a rock that was pretty cool and was joking that he found gold.  A gentleman nearby said he was a geologist and took a look.  He really was one!  He and his professor were there for a few weeks studying glacier rocks and activity and the professor was taking pictures of the cracks and crevices and our young friend had his own backpack filled with rock samples.  He assured us we did have gold! Well, a gold-colored rock that was part of the granite.

On to Lake Louise!  We missed that the last time we were here so we wanted to see what the fuss was about.  It is down a roller coaster road about 20 miles, but it was a gorgeous lake.  There are several lodges there and we stopped in the Lake Louise Lodge and had a cup of soup and asked about taking our kayaks in.  We had been on the fence about going anyway since it had been raining most of the trip, but they said that a wind warning had just come in so they couldn’t allow us on the lake.  I guess we weren’t meant to be on it today.  He did suggest a short hike from a camping area down the road and it was a short hike; we saw several piles of moose scat but no moose, and the mosquitoes decided to pay a visit.  Again, only biting me and only landing on Andrew.  Lake Louise must be the place to go for fishing, as there are boats and boat trailers everywhere, waiting for their owners to put them out in the water.  There were also quite a few ice huts, waiting on sleds for summer to be over already and the snow to fly!  And snowmobiles making the same wish!  In fact there were signs alerting drivers to be aware of snow machines!  Apparently Eisenhower was there after the war for four days (He was supposed to only stay one but he loved it so that he stayed four!).  It turns out Dad’s friend Tree Farmer’s lodge closed a few years ago so we didn’t venture there at all.  We surprised a moose grazing on side of the road on our way out.  He sort of jumped back when we slowed down.  I was a bit worried as they are pretty powerful animals but this one was a smaller one and looked more interested in eating then knocking us off the road. 

On to Valdez and the amazing views. It occurred to use we hadn’t seen the Alaskan Pipeline and we knew this was the end of the line for it.  It was there but elusive, at the base of the mountains, just beyond our vision.  The trees were much taller along this road so it was probably there the whole time! I know it is hard to do it justice in just a blog.  But everything is so gorgeous here.  We pulled into Valdez and set up our tent. The tent lot is a side part of the parking lot so it was complicated getting tent stakes in, but we did.  Campgrounds aren’t too busy with tent campers-we are definitely a minority there!  We had to aim it away from the parking lot so we could have a view of nine glaciers, the bay, and wildlife (The attendant assured me that bears don’t usually come up to the campground!).  It rained hit and miss the entire way and was only spritzing when we set up camp.  Our neighbor this evening is from Illinois!  He came up to go fishing with a buddy with a boat but said boat needs a few repairs and they weren’t done yet, so he doesn’t know if he’ll wait it out or not. 


And miracles of all miracles:  Valdez has 4 bars LTE so I can actually use my phone as a hotspot and update this yet tonight!!  Tonight here anyway. 

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