Friday, June 24, 2016

Day 17 (Wednesday, June 22, 2016)

Our campground in Seward was amazing in that is was the first one we encountered that didn’t have a single warning sign to watch out for bear or any other wildlife!!  We actually camped between two rented RVs (quite a few from the Great Alaskan Holidays company—Minnie Winnies, mini – Winnebago RVs; Cruise America RV Rental; etc.) and set up our tent in a little patch of grass beyond the gravel.  Our neighbors to one side were from Massachusetts!  The others never appeared from their RV, ever.  The Massachusetts folks actually flew into Fairbanks and then down to Anchorage to pick up their RV.  They’d had it less than 24 hours, but did a great job backing it up.  Andrew had to help with their water hookup as it was spraying everywhere, and then I had to unhook it as Andrew had it wound pretty tight, but all was good in the end.  Lovely people visiting a cousin that has been a teacher in the Aleutian Islands and Fairbanks for 30+ years as there weren’t teaching jobs available near her when she graduated.  She apparently surprised everyone by taking a job in Alaska and then staying. 

There are TONS of RVs out there, parking everywhere.  It appears that is the way to go if you really don’t want to drive.  It is amusing to think how much money Alaska is making on tourists.  We are a cheap date as we tent camp (last night was $10!), but RVs are more, and hotels are even more!!  When we were at the Flight Deck in Anchorage we were listening to a local complain about the tourists, with their RVs, and tour busses, and such.  I was just thinking to myself how much tourists are pumping into the economy; even we that are tent-camping our way do restock our food supplies and have done several guided things and will do more just to see more and get a larger experience.
Since our hiking plans fell through, we opted to ride our bikes about town-we did bring them along so we should use them.  It is a cute little community, as far as tourist communities go.  We checked into our boat tour office and then parked where we were supposed to park and then rode our bikes for about an hour, nearly taking out a few people that literally pulled their bikes onto the gorgeous bike trail (except for those annoying blue uprights to keep motorized things off-they are sure spaced tightly) right in front of us.  Then we had many walkers to traverse around.  All and all, great. 

The boat company suggested we dress in layers so we added a layer right before we left.  It was actually a hot day in Seward so we never really got cold at all, even out in the water.

We got to see sea otters doing their same cuteness.  Did you know that they have a million hairs per square inch on their bodies?  Us either, that is how they can stand the water and winters here.  AND they have special “pockets” under their armpits that they put rocks in so they can crack open crabs and such!  How clever!  They want to eat and that is the way to do it! 

Resurrection Bay is special as it is an actual fjord and never freezes. It is surrounded by mountains to keep the much colder waters of the Gulf of Alaska “out” so to speak.  It is also extremely deep; there is no gradual walking into this baby, as it drops straight to about 600 feet and is 1,000 feet in some places.  There was a ginormous cruise ship pulled into dock and lots of boats that could be chartered for one thing or another: wildlife tours (like us), fishing, kayaking (yes, they take you on a boat to a more secluded, less “wavy” area to kayak) and more.  There were eagles soaring overhead, so majestic. 

This tour is the same one we used ten years ago but this time lunch was included.  What was lunch?  A sandwich? No—salmon, prime rib, mashed potatoes, green beans/carrots, and salad.  Pretty nice deal!  We ate outside and were joined by two gentlemen from Norway.  Actually one was French but was living in Norway finishing up his PhD on wolves.  J  I had to do a double take on that one too.  The other one has his PhD in bears.  J  Yep, that one needed a smile too.  It turns out they were in Anchorage for a bear conference and there were people from all over the world attending.  The “wolf” guy was actually studying wolf habitats and since they tend to hang out where bears do, bears sometimes work their way into his research.  The “bear” guy was doing additional research into bear communities, their genetic make-up, diversity, etc.  Very interesting conversation for sure.  They had rented an RV (!) with several other folks that had attended the bear conference, extending their USA stay for a week.  They were planning on heading back to Norway tomorrow. 
Back onto the Nunatak and we were presented a fluke. A beautiful whale fluke.  I love whales; just ask anyone.  They are just such majestic creatures.  We actually had a great whale viewing day, not all fluke sightings, but at least six different ones I think.  The birds were absolutely crazy!  There were HUGE schools of fish all swimming together, looking like a black spot right under the surface of the water, so the birds were excited and the whales were too as this was easy eating.
 
We also saw some Stellar Sea Lions (different from the California Sea Lions) and it was very interesting watching and listening to the big bull “boss” everyone around so he could get a better position on the rock.  They are apparently on the endangered species list right now and they are studying the area to see if they notice any patterns on why.  They think perhaps the things they usually eat aren’t as handy due to climate change and they are having issues adjusting. 
We didn’t get to see many birds roosting in the rocks because they were all going nuts over the fish.  The puffins (two different kinds!) were funny little fellows to watch fly.  Our guide even commented that they aren’t good flyers as they are really too heavy, but they sure give it a shot!  Some black birds (I can’t remember their “name” right now) actually sort of “stood up” in the water before they took flight and looked like they were mimicking penguins-black with white and upright!

Of course the mountains are even more beautiful every day, those dark scraggly cliffs and tops glistening with white snow!!  And those glaciers, Styrofoam blue, just settled in between the peaks.  Several were on the edge of the Harding Ice Field, which is where we hiked yesterday.  We’ll have to get a topographical map to see how it all relates.

On the way back to port we struck up a conversation with a couple that looked familiar.  It turns out they ate at the Double Musky the same time we did and stayed in the same campground that evening so they were around that magnificent fire in the roundhouse.  They are both in the military (Air Force firemen) and are here for three years, him stationed in Fairbanks and her in Anchorage.  They asked to be stationed here and came from a year in South Korea!  They decided to take a week and explore so rented an RV to explore (either the military gets good discounts or they rent them to their servicemen-I can’t remember now!). He had his first winter already and, even though it was very mild compared to “normal,” he said the complete or near complete darkness is unnerving.  It really only barely gets dusky for a few hours.  She just got here so is looking forward to it-NOT.  But they really wanted to explore something new so they thought they give Alaska a try. 

Dad talked some of a town called Hope so we thought we’d see what it was all about.  Interesting!  It is an abandoned gold mining town, literally at the end of the road.  There is a bar and restaurant that are in original buildings from the late 1800s, and some other shops from that time period as well but they were closed already for the evening.  There is a “new” Hope down the road a bit, mostly little shops of one kind or another.  A school, and churches, but really a small place. 

We then waited 35 minutes to drive 2.5 miles in a tunnel, six minutes traveling on a one lane road that trains also use!  Whittier is our next adventure for a glacier boat tour.  Someone at the Flight Deck recommended it as he “knew the guy” that runs it.  Thy boats apparently get right up to the glaciers so you can be up close and personal, and are guaranteed wildlife sightings (maybe more whales!).  Our couple from the military warned us that the mosquitoes were really bad in Whittier.  Yeah, right.  They can’t be as bad as they were at the Arctic Circle.  Yes, they can be just as bad.  It is amazing.  I grabbed some of my bug spray from Avon (Thanks, Christy-I used the silver bottle this evening but the green works too!) and sprayed and sprayed.  They didn’t land on me but they swarmed within millimeters from my face!  And they landed on my hat and hair.  Even after I sprayed my hat and hair, they landed.  IRRITATING!  They didn’t bite that I know of but they are literally huge swarms.  They didn’t even swarm Andrew!  Lucky!

We weren’t sure exactly where we’d be sleeping as there aren’t a lot of places to camp here in Whittier, population 220.  But we found a gravel lot designated as a campground on the end of Prince William Sound.  There are RVs here, as I said they are everywhere!  And there is one other tent!  And a U-Haul van?  Not sure if there is a bed in there or not!

We have a great backdrop of snowing melting off the mountains, ending in a gorgeous waterfall.  Lovely to look at but then we quickly dart into the safety of our mosquito-free tent.

We hope to bike or kayak in the morning before our boat tour.  We’ll let you know!

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